Blaufrankisch

Today's grape of the day is blaufrankisch. While it does start with a b, implying that I might be going letter by letterm get those thoughts out of your mind. In Austria, the primary grower of the grape, it's blaufrankisch, but in Germany it's Lemberger and in Hungary, it's Kekfrancos. And continuing on with the variety of names, in the Czech Republic, it's Frankovka, in Itally, Franconia

What is it? It's a black grape and we know from its name -- at least if you know the history of Austrian wines where frankisch wines were considered the superior ones -- that it is considered a particularly noble grape in Austria. In fact, Austrian winemakers typically age it in new oak thinking that it rivals the syrah of the Hermitage area.

Blaufrankisch goes through an early bud break, but is typically harvested late. Because of that, despite being a hardy grape, it is susceptible to frostbite. In the US, you can find it in eastern Washington, the Finger Lakes region of New York as well as places like Idaho and Montana..

It's highly acidic and quite tannic and can produce a very alcohol-laden wine. But, in the hands of the best winemakers, often blending with small quantities of other grapes, you get wines that are racy in character and somewhat ageworthy, but that are not even remotely offensive to the palate. A classic example is the Hungarian Egri Bakaver, translated as Bull's Blood, one of the most prized wines of central Europe.

Think of blaufrankisch as a spicy varietal, throwing off notes of underbrush, dark cherries, blackberries, currants, and sometimes anise or licorice.

Consider pairing it with lamb or mixed grilled meats as well as some wild game.

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