Carmenere

The map said it was a short trip, but getting from Mendoza to the Colchagua Valley in Chile was grueling. Even the mountain passes in this part of the Andes are at high elevation. And, the roads are not exactly like the US interestate system. But, we wanted to taste Carmenere and that's where most of it is grown these days.

Despite it being thought of as a Chilean grape, Carmenere actually has its roots in the Medoc part of Bordeaux. In fact, back in earlier days of wine, it was one of the six red Bordeaux grapes and was used as a blending grape much in the style of Petit Verdot. This all came to an end when phylloxera (a disease that killed off many grape varietals in Europe in 1867. really attacked Carmenere plantings.

Carmenere was not discovered in Chile until the mid-1990s. Chilean viticulturists found grapes that were thought to have been Cabernet Franc, but found notable differences. Scientists identifed them as Carmenere and a new revolution in Chilean wine began.

Carmenere thrives in warm to hot growing seasons that are bone dry, thus the popularity in Chile. In fact, some of the villages west of the Andes in Chile are the most arid known on earth. When Carmenere is exposed to too much water, pyrazines fail to react and their actvity in the final bottled product leads to intense notes of green bell pepper. But, when the grapes are kept dry enough, the pyrazines react out as does the green pepper.

Carmenere ripens extremely late and if harvested too early produces extremely "hot" wines, very high in alcohol content. But, when allowed to ripen through the period in which the leaves turn carmine (French for crimson), Carmenere produces intensely bold and complex wines with sometimes mind-blowingly long finishes. Look for notes of blackberry, wet tar, clove, black pepper, and rose petals (think slightly less dry Barolo). The best carmeneres are exceptionally ageworthy.

Pair Carmenere with a wide variety of meats, but in particular, consider pairing it with veal. If the growing season was cooler, red sauces may work better to go with the residual bell pepper. In a warmer growing season, smoke your meats in the South American style.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Gruner Veltliner

Mount Veeder

Pinot Nakkali