Graciano

We're back in Rioja today in northern Spain to sample wines made from one of the truly important grapes of the region. Most great red wines coming out of Rioja have at least a touch of Graciano in them, but today we're drinking the single varietal versions.

What is Graciano? It's a highly perfumed, bright black grape that seems to have a mind of its own. It buds late, harvests late and is highly susceptible to downy mildew. It needs a hot, dry growing season to survive, and even then, yields are low.

So, why do wine estates grow this grape?

This is a highly acidic, extremely tannic grape. That owes to its ability to aid in aging and character to some of the great wines of the region. Most gran reservas of Rioja (minimum of 2 years on oak and 3 years in bottle before release), while very predominantly Tempranillo, have more than just a splash of Graciano in them. The extra body and complexity lent by this difficult grape make it well worth it to many winemakers and consumers have been willing to pay the price.

As we sample our Graciano, we notice the strong aroma of menthol while we swirl the wine in the glass. Upon hitting the palate, the structure is evident as the tannins quickly coat the entire palate. Yet, while most highly tannic wines are high in alcohol, Graciano is not, typically coming in under 13% ABV. As we begin to focus on the flavors, we note the sweet and sour while dark combination of mulberry, violet, and bitter chocolate, with just a bit of Asian spice.

If drinking Graciano in Spain, consider it with the local carne asada. In the US, grab some in New Orleans to pair with the Cajun and Creole flavors native there and to the rest of the state. For those not wanting meat, grab yourself some manchego or even blue cheese and enjoy the wonderful pairing.

You say you've never seen a bottle labeled Graciano, perhaps you've seen Tinta Miuda (Portuguese name), Xerez (some parts of California), Bovale (Saldo and Sardinia in Italy) or Morrastel in French Languedoc? Haven't seen those either? Well, they're all the same grape.

Tomorrow's a mystery as I have no idea where we are going. If you want to make a suggestion, I'm all ears and eyes.

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