Grenache (Chateauneuf du Pape)

It was an easy drive mostly along the Mediterranean coast to get from Banyuls sur Mer to Chateauneuf du Pape, sometimes irreverently abbreviated as CDP. And, while we are still drinking wines that are primarily Grenache, what a difference a day makes.

It's a storied Appelation d'origine Controllee (AOC) -- roughly 12 square miles mostly planted to grapes. And, while white wines are produced there, today we will focus on the more famous red wines of CDP.

But, first, why the strange name? Back in the early 14th century, Pope Clement V who had been Archbishop of Bordeaux moved the papal structure from the Vatican to Avignon. So, the town was literally called the pope's new castle.

Sometime during US Prohibition, the rules for the AOC were promulgated. Among other strange rules, they set minimum alcohol (12.5%, although you would be hard pressed in 2020 to find a CDP that is less than 14% alcohol by volume) levels and originally 10 permissible grapes. A few years later, that list was expanded to 13 and with reclassification of some of the grapes expanded to 18 in 2009 or 2010. Grenache is almost always the dominant grape and no grapes may be planted in the AOC unless the fields may also be planted with thyme and or lavender. (And we thought that some laws in the US were strange?) Some estates produce CDP that is made of only one grape (all that I am aware of are Grenache only) and most use between 3 and 5. While they do not do this in every vintage Chateau de Beaucastel is legendary as the only one in CDP to use all of the 10/13/18 grapes in some vintages.

So, what makes these wines so special. Instantly on the nose of a young CDP, you'll notice gamey notes punctuated by wet tar, moist leather, lavender, and thyme. On the palate, the youthful wine will be a bit jammy with strong undercurrents of white pepper, lavender, wet leather, and dried Provencial herbs (garrigue).

Part of what makes the wines of Chateauneuf de Pape so special is their ageworthiness. Great CDPs may cellar well for upwards of 50 years maintaining some of their spice and floral, albeit dried flowers, notes while still having loads of earthy complexity.

Production of CDP is unusual compared to other red wines. Typically, the Grenache is fermented in cement containers while the other grapes, particularly Syrah and Mourvedre, are aged in foudres, old oak barrels, before the juices are belnded together.

The absolutely classic pairing with Chateauneuf de Pape is lamb. In particular, the CDPs with heavy Syrah content will carry spicy dishes (think lamb curry) exceptionally well. And, as the wines age, serve CDP with the likes of wild boar or venison with grilled vegetables. And, finally, if you're looking for something unusual, throw some spices into your macaroni and cheese and pop open a younger bottle of Chateauneuf de Pape.



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