Nero d'Avola

We're staying in the southern European islands, but today we've sailed to the Mediterranean to visit Sicily and a little seaside town called Avola where we find the local grape, Nero d'Avola, literally the black of Avola.

It's a feisty, little grape, black as expected, that needs hot and dry climates. Often chocolatey and brimming with ripe plum, the tannins in Nero D'Avola and moderate acidity make many of its afficionados think of it as a baby Syrah. In fact, in its growing number of plantings in Australia, some have considered that it must somehow be genetically linked. Other flavors common in Nero d'Avola include black cherry, tobacco, licorice, and even hints of chile pepper.

Nero d'Avola has some advantages over most other tannic red wines, at least in the US, in that an excellent bottle of single varietal Nero d'Avola with aging potential can be yours for less than $20. Try getting that in your favorite Napa Cabernet.

Nero d'Avola has a perhaps less known purpose. It's usually the primary grape in the fortified Sicilian wine known as Marsala. Although US consumers view Marsala as a cooking wine, it can also be consumed as a sipping wine and easily handles the bitterness of the likes of asparagus, brussels sprouts, and bitter chocolate. And, as Italian restaurant goers know, it produces a wonderful sauce for veal and chicken breast.

Despite its Sicilian origins, I think Nero d'Avola's most natural pairings may be more traditional American food than Italian. Try it with a grilled burger or a rack of ribs fresh off your grill or smoker. Or, use it to class up that favorite of American kids -- "beanie weanies."

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