Riesling (Finger Lakes)
The Finger Lakes region in upstate New York is not easy to get to. I experienced it myself a couple of years ago when I got to choose among several small airports (more on that below). However, the wine in the region is very underrated and often quite good. In particular, we can find a lot of good Riesling there.
Before moving on to the wines though, my word of warning is do not cut your arrival at the local airports too tight for your flight. Upon arriving at the TSA security checkpoint to leave the area, we encountered a lowered gate with a sign saying "Agent on Break -- Will Return by [some time]." That time was nearly 30 minutes in the future. They had one agent.
The Finger Lakes region is really beautiful. Sitting roughly between Rochester and Syracuse, it is composed of a number of lakes, not surprisingly looking like fingers, winding roads, some farmland, and some industry. Winters are cold -- yes cold, not cool -- and summers are not exactly hot although the occasional day may try to trick the unwary tourist.
The wines there initially got a bad reputation. This was largely due to the Concord grape planted in the region sometime between the California Gold Rush and the Civil War. While it does get used for bulk, jug wines of the type that underage kids often drink because it's cheap and has alcohol, it's bad. Let me repeat that -- it's bad. And, Concord was the grape of the Finger Lakes region.
The area was created in a form roughly equal to its current form coming out of the Ice Age. That's important for wine growing because there is sparse soil with limited, if any nutrients covering a base of mostly shale. The lakes are just flat out cold in the winter. This frost effect delays budding of the grapes significantly making the growing season short and manageable.
Riesling was first planted in the Finger Lakes in the 2nd half of the 20th century when enterprising people decided that growing conditions were close enough to those in the Rhine valley of Germany to make it practical. Winemakers often use German yeasts and follow similar winemaking processes.
While the Rieslings in the area vary from bone dry to dry to off-dry to semi-sweet to very sweet, there are some characteristics that remain constant in [almost] all of the Riesling of the area. On the nose, you get stone fruit and citrus zest. And, on the palate, you get a wet stone that a professional taster might say is the signature of the area usrrounded by layers of honey and candied citrus as well as some green apple.
The wines are all particulary crisp reflecting the natural acidity and tend to be quite low in alcohol, often falling below 12% ABV, attributable to the short growing season. And, the winemakers of the area tend to let the grapes be what they will; that is, those that tend to natural sweetness are made into wines more of the kabinett style (more on that in a few days) while those that do not are made into wines resembling the trocken.
Excellent pairings for the dryer versions include meatier seafood such as scallops, swordfish, and salmon, or if you want to envision yourself in Germany, try it with bratwurst.
For the sweeter versions, try it with a fruit sorbet, a peach creme brulee, or simply sliced stone and orchard fruit with some creamy cheese.
Before moving on to the wines though, my word of warning is do not cut your arrival at the local airports too tight for your flight. Upon arriving at the TSA security checkpoint to leave the area, we encountered a lowered gate with a sign saying "Agent on Break -- Will Return by [some time]." That time was nearly 30 minutes in the future. They had one agent.
The Finger Lakes region is really beautiful. Sitting roughly between Rochester and Syracuse, it is composed of a number of lakes, not surprisingly looking like fingers, winding roads, some farmland, and some industry. Winters are cold -- yes cold, not cool -- and summers are not exactly hot although the occasional day may try to trick the unwary tourist.
The wines there initially got a bad reputation. This was largely due to the Concord grape planted in the region sometime between the California Gold Rush and the Civil War. While it does get used for bulk, jug wines of the type that underage kids often drink because it's cheap and has alcohol, it's bad. Let me repeat that -- it's bad. And, Concord was the grape of the Finger Lakes region.
The area was created in a form roughly equal to its current form coming out of the Ice Age. That's important for wine growing because there is sparse soil with limited, if any nutrients covering a base of mostly shale. The lakes are just flat out cold in the winter. This frost effect delays budding of the grapes significantly making the growing season short and manageable.
Riesling was first planted in the Finger Lakes in the 2nd half of the 20th century when enterprising people decided that growing conditions were close enough to those in the Rhine valley of Germany to make it practical. Winemakers often use German yeasts and follow similar winemaking processes.
While the Rieslings in the area vary from bone dry to dry to off-dry to semi-sweet to very sweet, there are some characteristics that remain constant in [almost] all of the Riesling of the area. On the nose, you get stone fruit and citrus zest. And, on the palate, you get a wet stone that a professional taster might say is the signature of the area usrrounded by layers of honey and candied citrus as well as some green apple.
The wines are all particulary crisp reflecting the natural acidity and tend to be quite low in alcohol, often falling below 12% ABV, attributable to the short growing season. And, the winemakers of the area tend to let the grapes be what they will; that is, those that tend to natural sweetness are made into wines more of the kabinett style (more on that in a few days) while those that do not are made into wines resembling the trocken.
Excellent pairings for the dryer versions include meatier seafood such as scallops, swordfish, and salmon, or if you want to envision yourself in Germany, try it with bratwurst.
For the sweeter versions, try it with a fruit sorbet, a peach creme brulee, or simply sliced stone and orchard fruit with some creamy cheese.
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