Chardonnay (Margaret River, Australia)
In case anyone asks, it is really difficult to get from Chile to the Margaret River wine area in Western Australia. In fact, it's not easy to get to Margaret River from very many places. Sitting perhaps five miles inland from the beaches of Surfer's Point on the Indian Ocean, but a full three hours south of Perth, winemakers of the area are employing "Old World" techniques to make some of the finest Chardonnay in the world.
There are other reasons that the Margaret River area is producing wines easily mistaken in quality for the Premier Crus of Burgundy. While each vineyard may have its own microclimate, the proximity to the Indian Ocean makes for more Mediterranean-like temperatures than the often extreme heat of areas such as Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale far to the east. During growing season, it's dry with only about an inch of rain each month from October through April, enough to grow rhe grapes, but not enough to create rot problems.
The origins of Margaret River Chardonnay started at the Leeuwin Winery about 40 years ago using a clone that the locals refer to as Gin Gin (I have no idea the origin of the name or where it came from). But ever the friendly people, the proprietors shared cuttings of vines from those clones with other local vignerons so that most top Chardonnay from the area is now made from Gin Gin.
Somewhat surprisingly for Burgundian-style whites, almost all Chardonnay from the area is aged in oak, but there are few signs. Often, these Chardonnays have a hint of spice, but none of the overwhelming oak that is found in many American Chardonnays.
We've been served six local Chardonnays. While all are different, they do share some characteristcs. The nose is incredibly expressive with notes of chamomille, Meyer lemon, ripe pear, cinnamon, and cardamom. On the palate, we are greeted by a very pure mouth feel combining just a splash of lemon, a spritz of lime, asian pear, cashews and almonds, nutmeg, and oyster shell. The acidity is very present, but nicely balanced. These wines are extremely ageworthy.
We have a myriad of choices to pair with today's wines. In particular, you might be pleased with a feast of raw oysters, smoked salmon, ahi tuna, and asparagus drizzled with lemon juice. Pairing with almost anything, you are sure to enjoy.
There are other reasons that the Margaret River area is producing wines easily mistaken in quality for the Premier Crus of Burgundy. While each vineyard may have its own microclimate, the proximity to the Indian Ocean makes for more Mediterranean-like temperatures than the often extreme heat of areas such as Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale far to the east. During growing season, it's dry with only about an inch of rain each month from October through April, enough to grow rhe grapes, but not enough to create rot problems.
The origins of Margaret River Chardonnay started at the Leeuwin Winery about 40 years ago using a clone that the locals refer to as Gin Gin (I have no idea the origin of the name or where it came from). But ever the friendly people, the proprietors shared cuttings of vines from those clones with other local vignerons so that most top Chardonnay from the area is now made from Gin Gin.
Somewhat surprisingly for Burgundian-style whites, almost all Chardonnay from the area is aged in oak, but there are few signs. Often, these Chardonnays have a hint of spice, but none of the overwhelming oak that is found in many American Chardonnays.
We've been served six local Chardonnays. While all are different, they do share some characteristcs. The nose is incredibly expressive with notes of chamomille, Meyer lemon, ripe pear, cinnamon, and cardamom. On the palate, we are greeted by a very pure mouth feel combining just a splash of lemon, a spritz of lime, asian pear, cashews and almonds, nutmeg, and oyster shell. The acidity is very present, but nicely balanced. These wines are extremely ageworthy.
We have a myriad of choices to pair with today's wines. In particular, you might be pleased with a feast of raw oysters, smoked salmon, ahi tuna, and asparagus drizzled with lemon juice. Pairing with almost anything, you are sure to enjoy.
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