Chardonnay (Puglia)
Today, we are in the boot of Italy. The wine region is usually referred to as Puglia. Puglia is a red wine region, famous for its Primitivo and Negroamaro. As recently as 30 years ago, there was not a hint of Chardonnay there. But in the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) Salento, there was a winemaker who had an inspiration. It was said to come to him from the Chiesa Madre (mother church) in Guagnano, a small town in the boot just miles from the Adriatic Sea. That inspiration was that the combination of the climate and the soil were perfect to grown Chardonnay.
Nearly laughed off the boot, he was inspired by the temperate climate (winter lows usually in the vicinity of 5-7C/41-44F and summer highs rarely as high as 30C/86F) with relatively high humidity year-round, a rainy season beginning in mid-October and lasting through most of the winter and dry summers. But, more than that, he was inspired by the Baroque architecture of his church erected from local limestone. It was that limestone he believed to be an ideal base from which to grow Chardonnay. Now, some 25 years later, some of the finest, and certainly best value (rarely reaching $20 per bottle), Chardonnay in the world is produced in this tiny area.
In the traditional method of producing Chardonnay from Puglia, grapes are harvested quite early, often before the midpoint of August. After cold press, the juice is fermented first in steel vats and then in barriques on lees for usually only six to eight months. The acidity, despite the limestone soil is typically just enough to balance, so the Pugliese recommend enjoying their Chardonnay at quite moderate temperatures such as 11-14C/52-57F (significantly warmer than Chardonnay is normally served in the US). The locals say that these temperatures allow the natural aroma and flavors to emerge without numbing the palate.
On the nose, we immediately get hints of baking spice and a bit of white pepper, evolving into local flowers and ripe, exotic fruit. On the palate, our Chardonnay is nearly velvety in its texture. Sweet spices coat the front palate with floral, green apple, and pear gradually emerging. On the finish, the limestone acidity wrapped in the same velvety texture begins to come through.
Pair your Chardonnay from Puglia with clams, oysters, mussels, moderately meaty white fish, green vegetables, soft cheeses, and a loaf of your favorite Italian bread fresh from the oven.
Nearly laughed off the boot, he was inspired by the temperate climate (winter lows usually in the vicinity of 5-7C/41-44F and summer highs rarely as high as 30C/86F) with relatively high humidity year-round, a rainy season beginning in mid-October and lasting through most of the winter and dry summers. But, more than that, he was inspired by the Baroque architecture of his church erected from local limestone. It was that limestone he believed to be an ideal base from which to grow Chardonnay. Now, some 25 years later, some of the finest, and certainly best value (rarely reaching $20 per bottle), Chardonnay in the world is produced in this tiny area.
In the traditional method of producing Chardonnay from Puglia, grapes are harvested quite early, often before the midpoint of August. After cold press, the juice is fermented first in steel vats and then in barriques on lees for usually only six to eight months. The acidity, despite the limestone soil is typically just enough to balance, so the Pugliese recommend enjoying their Chardonnay at quite moderate temperatures such as 11-14C/52-57F (significantly warmer than Chardonnay is normally served in the US). The locals say that these temperatures allow the natural aroma and flavors to emerge without numbing the palate.
On the nose, we immediately get hints of baking spice and a bit of white pepper, evolving into local flowers and ripe, exotic fruit. On the palate, our Chardonnay is nearly velvety in its texture. Sweet spices coat the front palate with floral, green apple, and pear gradually emerging. On the finish, the limestone acidity wrapped in the same velvety texture begins to come through.
Pair your Chardonnay from Puglia with clams, oysters, mussels, moderately meaty white fish, green vegetables, soft cheeses, and a loaf of your favorite Italian bread fresh from the oven.
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