Chardonnay (Sonoma)
Today, we are in the sprawling California county of Sonoma to drink their versions of Chardonnay. Unlike typically much smaller Appelations d'Origin Controllee (AOC) in France, for example, the Sonoma region is so large that it contains a multitude of American Viticultural Areas (AVA) wih diverse climates, soils, and growing conditions.
What do we know about Sonoma County? It begins just barely north of San Francisco and runs some 75 miles north to south and 65 east to west, being mountainous as often as not where it borders Napa yet running right to the edge of the Pacific Ocean in the west, having oppressively hot summers inland in some of the valleys situated properly among the mountains to having much more Burgundian like weather in areas such as Sonoma Coast running the length of the west to the more inland Russian River Valley, Chalk Hill, Alexander Valley, Carneros (sometimes Los Carneros and shared with Napa County), and finally Fort Ross/Seaview to the northwest yet not on the coast and home to some of the most storied wineries in the state.
It's in those AVAs just cited that Chardonnay grows voraciously, but as we will see, it varies significantly in taste and character. Because of this, I can think of no way to cover the entire county in one fell swoop, so for the first time on this journey, we approach the various AVAs separately on the same day.
Sonoma Coast
This important region runs the along the coast and just slightly inland from Novato in the south to Gualala in the north, some 90 miles by car. In the finest wines of this AVA, we find more acidity than in most American Chardonnay. The sea breezes produce cool nights and often dewy mornings. Often the wines are unoaked or aged only briefly in neutral oak (oak that has been used at least two seasons previously). The most prevalent notes are Meyer lemon, apple, white peaches, and perhaps honeydew.
Russian River Valley
Russian River Valley sits inland. Centered roughly around Sebastapol. With raditionally heavy rains from November through February, but rarely a drop of rain during the summer, and warm days, but quite cool night during growing season, the climate is wonderful for Chardonnay. While summer highs may often get above 32C/90F, evening lows often get down around 5C/41F. In the best expressions of Russion River Chardonnay, expect to find a slightly floral bouquet with loads of apple and bosc pear. On the palate, we note green apple, some lemon and even lime, but noticeable baking spices from the barrels that are often used in Russian River Valley.
Chalk Hill
A much smaller AVA, to the west of Napa Valley's Calistoga and generally northeast of Russian River Valley, not surprisingly, one of the key characteristics of Chalk Hill is its Chablis-like chalky soil. With a climate not unlike that of Russian River Valley, although often cooler, the local terroir brings out a differently nuanced Chardonnay than does that of its neighbor to the west. In Chalk Hill, expect highly textured Chardonnay loaded with baking spices and apple on the nose. On the palate, both from the terroir and the barrels frequently used, expect a velvety wine while still having noticeable acidity loaded with vanilla, hazelnut, and perhaps creme brulee, but having far less frutiness than those of the more western AVAs.
Alexander Valley
Alexander Valley sits yet farther north in the county. Within its beautifully rustic countryside, we find the valley surrounded by mountains on nearly all sides. And while the AVA does contain the word valley, the geography itself also does contain those mountains and some of the Chardonnay producers make full use of the steep slopes to produce some highly stressed Chardonnay. The soil tends to be loamy, the days in the growing season warm and dry, and the evenings cool and crisp. Expect among the richest Chardonnay from anywhere in the US with plenty of stone fruit, and generous minerality For those particularly enjoying the texture of a wine resting on their palates, the Chardonnay produced in Alexander Valley may be rivaled by only those of storied Montrachet in mouth feel and a long finish so uncharacteristic of white wines.
Carneros
Carneros sits far, far to the southeast in Sonoma County and borders (and in fact includes) the southern tip of Napa County. The cooler climate and clay soils here make the area excellent for growing Chardonnay. But, one of the other characteristics of the wines made here is that they go through full malolactic fermentation (the process by which malic acid is converted to produce the highly buttery taste often found in Chardonnay from California). From Carneros, we expect both citrusy and other tropical notes, but do not get the orachard fruit (apple and pear) often found in other Sonoma Chardonnay.. But largely from the winemaking process common in Carneros, expect voluminous notes of vanilla from the new American oak and butter from the full malolactic.
Fort Ross/Seaview
Fort Ross/Seaview is a new AVA (2012) in the far northwestern part of the county, but not on the Pacific. Formerly part of the Sonoma Coast AVA, the producers from this small AVA tend to produce such unique and high quality Chardonnay (and Pinot Noir) that they demanded and were awarded their own AVA.
The region sits at meaningful elevation, it's remote and rugged. Wine growing here is not for the faint of heart. The nearby ocean waters are cold, the days warm, but in most mornings, the fog sits well below the elevation of most of the AVA.
The wines are similarly unique. They often have extremely significant ageability, high acidity, brilliantly not quite biting minerality and a gently layered texture on the palate beginning with white floral notea, moving through first the orchard fruit and then stone fruit with gentle hints of citrus, baking spices, and perhaps a toasted hazelnut finish.
As grapes in this AVA are not easily produced, expect to pay a pretty price for Fort Ross/Seaview Chardonnay, but if your wallet is full and your love for Chardonnay real, these can be a life-changing experience for a true Chardonnay lover.
It's hard to say how to pair Sonoma Chardonnay. They are so diverse. But, generally speaking, look to fruits similar to the notes in the wines, soft cheeses, and whitish proteins including fish, chicken, and even pork and some small game.
What do we know about Sonoma County? It begins just barely north of San Francisco and runs some 75 miles north to south and 65 east to west, being mountainous as often as not where it borders Napa yet running right to the edge of the Pacific Ocean in the west, having oppressively hot summers inland in some of the valleys situated properly among the mountains to having much more Burgundian like weather in areas such as Sonoma Coast running the length of the west to the more inland Russian River Valley, Chalk Hill, Alexander Valley, Carneros (sometimes Los Carneros and shared with Napa County), and finally Fort Ross/Seaview to the northwest yet not on the coast and home to some of the most storied wineries in the state.
It's in those AVAs just cited that Chardonnay grows voraciously, but as we will see, it varies significantly in taste and character. Because of this, I can think of no way to cover the entire county in one fell swoop, so for the first time on this journey, we approach the various AVAs separately on the same day.
Sonoma Coast
This important region runs the along the coast and just slightly inland from Novato in the south to Gualala in the north, some 90 miles by car. In the finest wines of this AVA, we find more acidity than in most American Chardonnay. The sea breezes produce cool nights and often dewy mornings. Often the wines are unoaked or aged only briefly in neutral oak (oak that has been used at least two seasons previously). The most prevalent notes are Meyer lemon, apple, white peaches, and perhaps honeydew.
Russian River Valley
Russian River Valley sits inland. Centered roughly around Sebastapol. With raditionally heavy rains from November through February, but rarely a drop of rain during the summer, and warm days, but quite cool night during growing season, the climate is wonderful for Chardonnay. While summer highs may often get above 32C/90F, evening lows often get down around 5C/41F. In the best expressions of Russion River Chardonnay, expect to find a slightly floral bouquet with loads of apple and bosc pear. On the palate, we note green apple, some lemon and even lime, but noticeable baking spices from the barrels that are often used in Russian River Valley.
Chalk Hill
A much smaller AVA, to the west of Napa Valley's Calistoga and generally northeast of Russian River Valley, not surprisingly, one of the key characteristics of Chalk Hill is its Chablis-like chalky soil. With a climate not unlike that of Russian River Valley, although often cooler, the local terroir brings out a differently nuanced Chardonnay than does that of its neighbor to the west. In Chalk Hill, expect highly textured Chardonnay loaded with baking spices and apple on the nose. On the palate, both from the terroir and the barrels frequently used, expect a velvety wine while still having noticeable acidity loaded with vanilla, hazelnut, and perhaps creme brulee, but having far less frutiness than those of the more western AVAs.
Alexander Valley
Alexander Valley sits yet farther north in the county. Within its beautifully rustic countryside, we find the valley surrounded by mountains on nearly all sides. And while the AVA does contain the word valley, the geography itself also does contain those mountains and some of the Chardonnay producers make full use of the steep slopes to produce some highly stressed Chardonnay. The soil tends to be loamy, the days in the growing season warm and dry, and the evenings cool and crisp. Expect among the richest Chardonnay from anywhere in the US with plenty of stone fruit, and generous minerality For those particularly enjoying the texture of a wine resting on their palates, the Chardonnay produced in Alexander Valley may be rivaled by only those of storied Montrachet in mouth feel and a long finish so uncharacteristic of white wines.
Carneros
Carneros sits far, far to the southeast in Sonoma County and borders (and in fact includes) the southern tip of Napa County. The cooler climate and clay soils here make the area excellent for growing Chardonnay. But, one of the other characteristics of the wines made here is that they go through full malolactic fermentation (the process by which malic acid is converted to produce the highly buttery taste often found in Chardonnay from California). From Carneros, we expect both citrusy and other tropical notes, but do not get the orachard fruit (apple and pear) often found in other Sonoma Chardonnay.. But largely from the winemaking process common in Carneros, expect voluminous notes of vanilla from the new American oak and butter from the full malolactic.
Fort Ross/Seaview
Fort Ross/Seaview is a new AVA (2012) in the far northwestern part of the county, but not on the Pacific. Formerly part of the Sonoma Coast AVA, the producers from this small AVA tend to produce such unique and high quality Chardonnay (and Pinot Noir) that they demanded and were awarded their own AVA.
The region sits at meaningful elevation, it's remote and rugged. Wine growing here is not for the faint of heart. The nearby ocean waters are cold, the days warm, but in most mornings, the fog sits well below the elevation of most of the AVA.
The wines are similarly unique. They often have extremely significant ageability, high acidity, brilliantly not quite biting minerality and a gently layered texture on the palate beginning with white floral notea, moving through first the orchard fruit and then stone fruit with gentle hints of citrus, baking spices, and perhaps a toasted hazelnut finish.
As grapes in this AVA are not easily produced, expect to pay a pretty price for Fort Ross/Seaview Chardonnay, but if your wallet is full and your love for Chardonnay real, these can be a life-changing experience for a true Chardonnay lover.
It's hard to say how to pair Sonoma Chardonnay. They are so diverse. But, generally speaking, look to fruits similar to the notes in the wines, soft cheeses, and whitish proteins including fish, chicken, and even pork and some small game.
Comments
Post a Comment
I'd like your feedback and questions.