Chardonnay
Today we start a global journey exploring the nearly ubiquitous white grape Chardonnay. While it has long been the sole grape that has produced the famous white Burgundy that will be part of our journey over the next number of days, only the vignerons and winemakers were truly familiar with the name. It wasn't until the advent of "New World" wines that listing the grape varietal or varietals on bottles was in vogue. Until then, we usually just saw the appellation, e.g., Chablis, and or the region, e.g., Bourgogne.
In particular, the branding of Napa Valley wine put an end to that and Chardonnay became a wine of choice for wine drinkers in the US as well as many other geographies. Fans of the grape note its easy drinking and expressive flavors. Dissenters tend not to hate the grape, but the way the grape is produced into a wine.
On this journey, we'll start in the Colchagua Valley of Chile, both Margaret River and Tasmania in Australia, Sonoma and Napa in California, and then ending in France visiting various appellations in Bourgogne.
Today, however, we try to understand why Chardonnay is so popular, yet often so damned. Of all grapes, only Chardonnay seems to merit tastings that deride it, those sometimes known as ABC tastings, those being anything but Chardonnay. But, for many others, Chardonnay, and often not other 100% Chardonnay wines with appellation labels, is the only wine they will drink.
What's going on here?
You see, Chardonnay, perhaps more than any other grape, produces wines that are so different in nature due to climate, terroir, and the winemaking process. Terroir, of course, is the land in which the grapes are grown. And, as we will see on our journey, the processes that are used in making Chardonnay wines have remarkable effects on the wines produced. Likely no other grape has that level of disparity.
Why?
Let's just start with the basics.
The warmer the climate and the more time the wine spends on oak, the less acidic the wine will be. So, if you don't like the clean, sometimes biting tasts of an acidic Chardonnay, stick to those from particularly warm climates that were aged in oak. If you like the cleaner crisper varieties, you need those from cooler climates that were fermented in vessels of stainless steel or concrete. For the former group, serve them warmer than Americans tend to drink white wine, perhaps at 13C/ 55F while even the more acidic ones should be nowhere near refrigerator cold, maybe 9C/48F.
Another important factor is malolactic fermentation, the purpose of which is to remove the tart flavors of the malic acid found in the grape's must. Byt introducing lactic acid bacteria, usually during a secondary fermentation, but sometimes as part of the regular or primary fermentation, the malic acid reacts out and the resulting diacetyl produces the buttery flavors found in many California Chardonnays.
What is always present in Chardonnay and what is variable?
The standard fruit include apple, pear, lemon, pineapple, fig, peach (rarely in wines that have undergone malolactic fermentation or seen new oak), and passion fruit. We also are often greeted by the likes of jasmine, beeswax, citrus zest, honeysuckle, almond, vanilla and vanilla bean, and flinty wet rocks.
And what varies?
From oak, and the newer the oak, the more enhanced these flavors are likely to be, vanilla, butter, baking spices, creme brulee, pralines, coconut, and warm pie crust.
You'll know what you'll like from your own palates. Come on our journey over the next week or more to learn how to identify the Chardonnay that fits your taste profiles of choice.
In particular, the branding of Napa Valley wine put an end to that and Chardonnay became a wine of choice for wine drinkers in the US as well as many other geographies. Fans of the grape note its easy drinking and expressive flavors. Dissenters tend not to hate the grape, but the way the grape is produced into a wine.
On this journey, we'll start in the Colchagua Valley of Chile, both Margaret River and Tasmania in Australia, Sonoma and Napa in California, and then ending in France visiting various appellations in Bourgogne.
Today, however, we try to understand why Chardonnay is so popular, yet often so damned. Of all grapes, only Chardonnay seems to merit tastings that deride it, those sometimes known as ABC tastings, those being anything but Chardonnay. But, for many others, Chardonnay, and often not other 100% Chardonnay wines with appellation labels, is the only wine they will drink.
What's going on here?
You see, Chardonnay, perhaps more than any other grape, produces wines that are so different in nature due to climate, terroir, and the winemaking process. Terroir, of course, is the land in which the grapes are grown. And, as we will see on our journey, the processes that are used in making Chardonnay wines have remarkable effects on the wines produced. Likely no other grape has that level of disparity.
Why?
Let's just start with the basics.
The warmer the climate and the more time the wine spends on oak, the less acidic the wine will be. So, if you don't like the clean, sometimes biting tasts of an acidic Chardonnay, stick to those from particularly warm climates that were aged in oak. If you like the cleaner crisper varieties, you need those from cooler climates that were fermented in vessels of stainless steel or concrete. For the former group, serve them warmer than Americans tend to drink white wine, perhaps at 13C/ 55F while even the more acidic ones should be nowhere near refrigerator cold, maybe 9C/48F.
Another important factor is malolactic fermentation, the purpose of which is to remove the tart flavors of the malic acid found in the grape's must. Byt introducing lactic acid bacteria, usually during a secondary fermentation, but sometimes as part of the regular or primary fermentation, the malic acid reacts out and the resulting diacetyl produces the buttery flavors found in many California Chardonnays.
What is always present in Chardonnay and what is variable?
The standard fruit include apple, pear, lemon, pineapple, fig, peach (rarely in wines that have undergone malolactic fermentation or seen new oak), and passion fruit. We also are often greeted by the likes of jasmine, beeswax, citrus zest, honeysuckle, almond, vanilla and vanilla bean, and flinty wet rocks.
And what varies?
From oak, and the newer the oak, the more enhanced these flavors are likely to be, vanilla, butter, baking spices, creme brulee, pralines, coconut, and warm pie crust.
You'll know what you'll like from your own palates. Come on our journey over the next week or more to learn how to identify the Chardonnay that fits your taste profiles of choice.
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