Riesling Auslese

We've made it to the highest classification of the pradikat Riesling that is readily available -- the Auslese, meaning select harvest classification. While Riesling Auslese can be made in a dry trocken style, Germany has discouraged that for a number of years, so we focus today on the sweeter variety.

In the Rheingau, the requirement is that the must have a specific mass of at least 1095 grams per liter; i.e., the juice must be a minimum of 95 Oeschel. And, the sweetness and weightiness must be natural. In some areas outside of Germany, winemakers use a process called chaptalization (adding sugar to the must to increase the level of alcohol post-fermentation).

We have been offered a variety of Riesling Auslese for our adventure today. We notice differences in the bottles, but initially ignore them. What we do notice and have for our entire time on this side of the river in Germany (we noticed this during most of the rest of our Riesling journey as well) is that the bottles are flat-bottomed. Grab a bottle of wine; almost any bottle. Look at the bottom. It has a dimple or punt. Riesling generally does not (we can often say this about Gewurtzraminer and Gruner Veltliner as well). Why is this? Legend has it that this goes back to the early days of German Riesling. It is easier and less expensive to produce a flat-bottomed bottle than one with a punt. The German winemakers wanted to produce less expensive wines, so they started by using less expensive bottles. For example, many Riesling Auslese, and remember we are talking about a high end of the pradikat wine, can be found for less than $20 and some are available for less than $10.

After learning this, we look at other differences in the bottles. Some have stars on the label. Others are adorned with a goldkapsel (the foil capsule is gold rather than silver or some other color). Either of these, while largely unofficial (gee, that is a rarity in European wine), denote that the wine, even among Auslese is extra ripe.

Better Riesling Auslese age particuarly well. What we notice are the differences during the aging processes are the evolution from a stone fruit predominant wine to one with far more herbal notes and the characteristic lanolin and petrol (it does sound more distinguished than gasoline). In either case, the wines are fairly viscous and full-bodied being byproducts of the weighty must.

Pair the younger Riesling Auslese with hard, minerally, salty cheeses such as an aged gruyere or comte , or traditional heavy German dishes like sauerbraten. or wiener schnitzel. For the more mature of the group, they are excellent dessert wines. Check the herbal notes (the best way to do this may be to cheat and use the internet) before preparing your dessert to ensure compatibility. Then consider fruit tarts, pineapple, or coconut. Remember, no matter how much you like your sweet desserts, the dessert should never be sweeter than the wine it is paired with.


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