Arneis

We're back in the Piemonte of Italy today after a nearly 5 hour circuitous drive. We went through Bologna, through the vinegar capital of Modena, the home o fine prosciutto in Parma, and then wound our way through the Italian Alps to the little town of Roero in the province of Cuneo. It's hear that the once lost white grape Arneis found its rebirth.

We're at 550 meters/1800 feet where the Stura and Gesso rivers come together. It's also surrounded by six mountain passes ranging in elevation from Colle di Cadibona at 459 meters /1500 feet to Colle della Madalena at 1996 meters/6550 feet.

During World War II, Roera as the capital of Cuneo was a resistance center against German occupation of Italy. Briefly, at least compared to others, the prominent Jewish population of the area was interred in concentration camps, but they were also among the first to be rescued.

The town is also the home of Arneis, a long-lost white grape, perhaps because nobody could find a home for it. But, Alfredo Currado, winemaker for the famous Vietti family, perhaps more widely known for its prodigious Barolo and Barbaresco saw a home for it in the Roero and is now the king of the grape.

It's a sublte grape, producing wines that make one think summer afternoon. Certainly not in your face, but rather to bring reflection, the wine is low in acidity, fairly light bodied, and reflects much of the plant life in the area. On the nose, we get almond, nutmeg, and some underripe peach and golden delicious apple. On the palate, we find those flavors as well as juicy peach and perhaps some less concentrated honey.

Do not overcool your Arneis. 10C/50F is plenty cold enough. Serve it with creamy pasta, chicken, or light fish. So, a wonderful pairing might be fettucine alfredo with chicken, or even turkey, added to it. And, for a special addition to the pairing, add a healthy dose of tarragon to your sauce.




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