Sangiovese with a focus on Brunello di Montalcino

We're in the center of Italy today, about 2 1/2 hours mostly north of Rome and nearly 2 hours mostly to the south of Florence. We're on a hill that at various times in history has shared its name with the town in which it sits. Once famous more for its tanneries in the ultra-important Italian leather industry, today Montalcino is known for its red wines. Best known among them is the iconic Brunello di Montalcino which by law is made from 100% Sangiovese. And, lucky us, that's what we are drinking today.

Some would tell us that there is technically a grape called Brunello, but we are going to side with the other faction that says that it is merely a clone of Sangiovese known as Sangiovese Grosso. In either case, we encounter yet another dispute. What exactly are the origins? 

In some dialects of Italian at various times in history, one could translate Brunello to mean select red wine. In fact, in the 14th century, in areas around Montalcino and as far south as Rome, the wines of the emperors were said to be known as Brunello. But, it wasn't until 1888 when Ferruccio Biondi-Santi (yes, I did Google his name) isolated the Sangiovese Grosso clone from other clones of the grape and bottled the wine that he produced did the name Brunello di Montalcino become synonymous with the great wines of the region.

It's likely more than just the clone rhough. The climate is perfect for Sangiovese and in the best vintages, the climate appears to accentuate the richness of flavors in the wine. It's perhaps the driest place in the area. It is blessed with cool breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea providing for cool nights and superior natural ventilation of the vines and grapes.

As with many Italian wines, there are strict rules of the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), the highest designation in Italian wine. To be labeled a DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, a wine must be 100% Sangiovese (in practice, it is the Grosso clone) with at least 2 years on oak (usually barriques) and 4 years of aging, at least 4 months in bottle prior to release. For the wines classified as Riserva, the total aging must be at least 72 months, traditionally at least 54 of them in barriques.

In the northern part of Montalcino, we have higher altitude and a particularly rocky soil known as galestro while the southern part is warmer and the soil is more claylike. As a result, harvest is typically a week earlier in the south and the wines are more fruit-forward while the northern part of Montalcino produces much more aromatic wines. Most top producers, however, have vineyards in both areas and blend the product from the two to produce wines of the styles they prefer.

The grapes used in Brunello are thick-skinned and produce quite tannic wines. Of course, the long aging process gives the tannins time to soften and round. Younger ones though will still be quite tannic. 

In a young Brunello (say, 5-8 years after harvest), expect notes of freshly tilled soil, rich coffee, licorice, violets, dried strawberry and cranberry. In an older Brunello, and the best can easily withstand 30 years of aging, look for candied red fruit, anise, figs, leather, chocolate, hazelnut, and dried rose.

When drinking Brunello di Montalcino, we might as well pair it with local fare. Pair with Italian-style beef dishes, tomato-based sauces, and dishes that make plentiful use of olive oil and vinegar (the natural acidity in the wine will pair nicely with the natural acidity in any of these dishes).