Terroir Matters -- Part 2

While we're in Napa, let's stay there and explore a bit more. Back in 1981, Napa Valley became the first American Viticultural Area in California and the second in the United States (the first was the Augusta AVA in the Missouri Ozarks -- seemingly not quite as famous as Napa Valley). Within Napa Valley, there are 16 separate AVAs (and growing), as well as a number of areas such as Pritchard Hill that are not part of their own AVA within Napa Valley. We're going to explore a few of the less known ones today to see what makes them special.

Let's start with the newest of the AVAs -- Coombsville. Coombsville received its designation in 2011. Located on the Napa River just north of the point where it dumps in San Pablo Bay, its proximity to the bay provides for much cooler weather than we find up valley. It also sits in the shadows of Mount George slightly to its east from which volcanic ash was deposited in the soils of the area. What we get from this is an ability to produce high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the Burgundian style in Napa Valley. The gravelly texture of the volcanic soil in Coombsville lends itself to particularly minerally wines. The cool nights with characteristic fog coming off the bay create a very different wine than we think of when we think Napa Valley.

Staying on the east side of what is known as Napa Valley, we head north to the Atlas Peak AVA. For those familiar with the area, we'll take Silverado Trail north to Soda Canyon Road which runs to the northeast eventually climbing Atlas Peak. It's both a wine-producing area and a grower's area meaning that there are some vineyards whose primary purpose is to source grapes to other wineries. Up here at nearly 2000 feet, the temperatures, both day and night, are typically about 15 degrees cooler than much of the rest of Napa Valley. The vines, generally speaking, have been planted on the steep Vaca Range slopes often down to the many ponds, lakes, and springs that dot the area. What The grapes here are limited to those that can grow in nearly barren soil heavily stressed from the steep slopes and intense afternoon sun. So, when we think Atlas Peak, we think Cabernet Sauvignon.

What makes these Cabernets special? It's the striking acidity that when combined with the dense tannins characteristic of hillside wines produces a balanced Cabernet with tremendous structure. Expect an aromatic Cabernet with lots of baker's chocolate and dark fruit.

While we're on the east side of the valley, let's make one more stop for the day. We're going to retrace our strps a bit taking Soda Canyon Road back to Silverado Trail and heading north. After about 15 miles, we'll turn to the east on to Lower Chiles Valley Road and continue for a few miles into the Chiles Valley AVA, perhaps Napa's smallest. Generally situated at about 1000 feet and overlooking the bright blue waters of Lake Berryessa to its east, in the early mornings, we can see the fishing enthusiasts trying their lot. But, we are here to drink wine.

Unlike Atlas Peak where the altitude makes for considerably cooler temperatures, the foggy breezes don't make it to Chiles Valley. So, while the nights are quite cool, temperatures during the day often top out at 100 degrees or more. And, as phylloxera (a disease that kills off grapes) never hit Chiles Valley, many of the vines here are extremely old.

What we have in Chiles Valley are Bordeaux grapes -- the classic reds particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot as well as white grapes Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. In our red wines from Chiles Valley, we tend to get layers of cocoa around dark fruit, particularly currants. To some, it is reminiscent of Oakville fruit, but generally less ageworthy and without the massive finish that we find in the finest wines from Oakville.

The white wines here have intense minerality and lots of fruit, but not with the strong citrus notes that you would expect, for example, from a Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc. Moreso, you might think of the wet stone reminiscent of Sancerre.

So, there you have it for today, three different AVAs all considered Napa Valley and all with cool nights, but all producing significantly different wines.