Nerello Mascallese

We're off to the island of Sicily today after yesterday's visit to Antarctica. It is a bit warmer here.

Situated just off the southwestern toe of Italy's boot and closer to the African nation of Tunisia than to Italy's capital of Rome, Sicily is the largest island in the Meditarranean Sea. Legendary as the home of La Cosa Nostra, originally a group of private enforcers to the large landowners, when fascism spread through Italy in the 1920s and 1930s, there was a mass exodus from Sicily to the US. One thing that did not leave, however, was Nerello Mascallese, a red grape that is Sicily's answer to Pinot Noir.

Much of the wine produced in Sicily is in the far eastern side of the island near Mt. Etna, the largest active volcanon of Europe towering more than 3300m/nearly 11000 feet over the island. The volcanic soil near the mountain has proven perfect for growing a little known red grape called Nerello Mascallese. Most Americans have never experienced it or at least don't know that they have, but we, of course, have the opportunity today.

Genetically, the grape appears to be a close relative of Sangiovese and from that, we get the intense dryness of the wines, but the relatively light body makes one think more of Pinot Noir although ampelographers (scientists who study the classification of wine grapes) have not found the connection.

It's an interesting wine in a very good way. For a light wine, it has noticeable tannins and is fairly acidic no doubt the byproduct of the volcanic ash in which it grows. It's typically made fairly low in alcohol (expect it to be only 12% or so ABV) and has wonderful herbal tendencies to go with the more expected Mediterranean fruit.

On the nose, we get fresh Sicilian pizza, brimming with oregano, rosemary, thyme sage, and perhaps some coriander. On the palate, there are noticeable gravelly notes reminiscent of some of the wines we tasted in Napa Valley just 10 days ago, as well as allspice, citrus zest, dried cherries, and lots more oregano.

Pair your Nerello Mascallese with pizza, of course, as well as pork or chicken or cured Italian meats. And, don't forget to add roasted red peppers and a generous helping of oregano.

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