Tempranillo (Rioja)

We're heading just a little bit east today, but what a world of difference. If you were to ask a knowledgeable wine person where to get great Tempranillo and Tempranillo-based wines, many would tell you Ribera del Duero, but perhaps more would tell you Rioja.

The history of wine in Rioja dates back at least as far as when the Phoenicians controlled large parts of Spain roughly 3000 years ago. However, regulations for wines of the denominacion de origen (DO) were not established until 1970. About 20 years later, Rioja became the first denominacion de origen calificada (DOC), the highest level of classification in the country, in Spain.

The DOC is further split into three sub-regions although not all wines of Rioja are labeled with the sub-region. Rioja Alta, in the west, is at the highest elevation. This gives its grapes the shortest growing season resulting in brighter flavors. The wines there tend to be in the "Old World" style making them somewhat lighter on the palate and many would say more food-friendly.

Toward the longitudinal center, we find Rioja Alavesa. While the elevation here is lower, the soil can only be described as putrid. The additional stresses placed on the grapes here from the poor soil result in fuller-bodied wines with considerably higher acidity.

Finally, Rioja Oriental, to the east, with its hot summers (35C/95F is a normal summer day) produce massively full-bodied wines. Rarely produced as a single varietal, when they are, they may be as high as 18-19% ABV.

Red wines classified as Rioja DOC are further denominated by their aging process into three categories. 

• Crianza must be aged for at least 24 months from October 1 of the harvest year with not less than 12 of those months in oak barrels (the remainder in bottle)
• Reserva must be aged not less than 36 months with at least 12 of those months on oak.
• Gran Reserva must be aged for at least 60 months with no less than 24 of those months in oak barrels.

What we get from all this are age-worthy wines that outside of those 100% Tempranillo from Rioja Oriental are quite food-friendly. Among the younger wines (up to about 10 years), expect the softness of vanilla with lots of dark cherry, often a bit of dill, cigar box, some tobacco notes, leather, and some say sun-dried tomato.

As the wine ages (10-25 years), expect a distinct softening and sweetening with a far sweeter nuttiness to it.

Ideally, pair Tempranillo from Rioja with traditional local foods such as paella, chorizo, and manchego. Several sommeliers have said that the ultimate pairings for Rioja are pigeon with truffles (I wouldn't know). But, most will tell you that they are easy drinking and go with almost anything but light seafood.