Discover the Wines of San Marino

Yesterday, we were in a small European country. Let's go from small to tiny. At 61 square miles, the Most Serene Republic of San Marino (yes, that is its name) is only about 12% larger than Denver International Airport. But, since they don't produce wine at DIA, there is clearly no point in being there. 

Why San Marino? What is it? Where is it?

It's a country within a country -- landlocked within Italy less than 15 miles from the Adriatic Sea, it sits primarily on the steep hillsides of the Appenine Mountains. To hear some of the data about the nation, you would think it's the closest place to paradise. It's a wealthy country with remarkably low unemployment, no national debt, and it runs a budget surplus every year. And, did I say they produce wine?

Here is the bad news. If you want to drink Sanmarinese wine, you have to go to San Marino. They don't export it. Never. Not even to Italy. 

Since it is surrounded on all sides by Italy, it's not at all surprising that the grapes grown in San Marino sound like Italian grapes. The reputation that has been established is that when you go to San Marino, you drink red wine. Some of the reds have been praised by critics. Most of the whites have been spat out by critics even when they had intended to actually drink the wine.

The predominat grape worth consuming here is Sangiovese. You can find Sangiovese-based wines here in essentially 4 levels: the red table wine without reference to grape (do not drink it unless your sole goal is the alcohol), the 100% Sangiovese -- inexpensive and drinkable, but nothing to write home about, the Brugnetto -- at least 85% Sangiovese and fermented and aged in steel tanks -- which is much like decent Chianti and has decent aging potential, and the Tessano -- at least 50% Sangiovese aged in barriques typically for a year and then in bottle for close to a year before release -- a red wine that is quite dry and herbal.

Since you asked, the white wines are made mostly of Ribolla Sanmarinese, a grape that you likely will not experience in your life. It's grown predominantly on the south-facing slopes near the capital city of, you guessed it, San Marino. Acidic to the point of bitterness, it reminded one wine critic of grain alcohol with most of the alcohol stripped out. Hot beyond belief (heat in wine is the taste of alcohol), and without redeeming flavor features, consumption of a glass may be a local torture.

If you do visit San Marino, try the red wine and then enjoy a different beverage with the local treasure, Torta Tre Monti, the cake of the three towers. It's a decadent chocolate dessert made to depict the three towers of the country.


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