Syrah (Priorat, Spain)

Today was one of our shortest trips ever. We headed barely to the east from Montsant to get to Priorat. In fact, they are so close that one of the highlights, other than the winea , of Priorat is Montsant Natural Park. One of the big differences, though is that while Montsant is a DOP (Denominación de Origen Protegida), Priorat is one of two (along with Rioja) wine regions in Spain given the highest designation of Denominación d'Origen Qualificada (DOQ). What this tends to mean is that you pay more for your wine. But, is there a difference?

In Priorat, summers are long, seemingly endless and hot, typically around 35C/95F during the day, but winter winds from the north make them quite cold, although that cold is shielded somewhat by the mountains to the north and is warmed by the mistral winds from the east.

The soil here is volcanic, generally red and brown slate, filled generously with mica crystals. The mica, mostly near the surfact of the soil, has the property of being exceptionally reflective of sunlight. What this does during the summer is that it gives the Syrah grapes even more intense and longer-lasting sunlight making for a more intense wine.

The vineyards themselves are inaccessible by mere mortals. Vineyard workers must traverse difficult twisty and steep slopes to reach them or get there by mule. Most use the mule method when they can.

Priorat has not always been a wine haven, though. Heavily planted with grapes and olives until the middle of the 19th century, the phyllovera mite killed off many of the vines in the 1850s and 1860s. Many of these vines were not replanted until well into the second half of the 20th century and even then, the fascist government under Generalissimo Franco tended to not let private producers make winefor popular consumption or for consumption outside of Spain. Today, however, Priorat is a hotbed of mostly red wines starting with the famous Garnacha, but also including some of the finest Syrah in the world.

The Syrahs of this small region are characterized by their somewhat fleshy tannins and a color reminiscent of cherries. Minerally and bold, we get lots of ripe, dark fruit, a fair amount of dark spice including Syrah's characteristic pepper and often notes of mocha and dark chocolate. 

These wines are quite ageworthy and many of the best don't really come into their own until 5-7 years after harvest at a minimum. Be patient with them and you will be rewarded. Drink them with traditional Catalonian food that you might find on a trip to Barcelona, barely to the north.