Vermentino

Today, we are island hopping. That's right, we're going to not just one, but two Italian islands, Sardinia (Sardegna) and Corsica (Corse). Why? Were it not for a small isthmus between the two islands in the Mediterranean closer to Tunisia than to the mainland of Italy, they would be a single island. And, the Vermentino growing in Sardinia is so far to the north and in Corsica so far to the south that they are closer to each other than are the more distant parts of their own islands.

The more renowned of the two, though, is definitely in the north Sardinian former province of Olbia-Tempio (in recent years, political struggles forced the province to cease to exist as a separate administrative body, but don't tell the locals). The landscape here is known for its mountains and steeply sloped cliffs. Unlike most northern Hemisphere plantings, however, rather than facing southerly to get the natural sunlight, most Vermentino is planting facing the sea getting the bright reflecting sunlight off the Mediterranean. Like its neighbor to the north, it's a volcanic island that gives the grapes grown here a natural minerality and acidity.

When we stroll out into the vineyards, the appearance of the Vermentino is clear. As a grape, it has a disticnt geometrical structure. With an eye toward symmetry, the leaves are pentagonl -- as close to regular pentagons as we might see in nature -- and the grapes hang neatly down in perfect pyramidal bunches. 

For the most part, Vermentino is picked early. It allows for a white wine typically of a fairly low alcohol level that retains a fresh acidity and vibrant minerality. On the nose, we get a fairly citrusy wine with notes of lime, meyer lemon, and grapefruit. On the palate, however, a noticeable amount of granny Smith apple and alnond often come through along with the yellow-white notes of fresh daffodils.

You want a good reason to drink Vermentino particularly in the US? It tastes an awful lot like Sauvignon Blanc, but Americans have never heard of it. So, guess what -- it's far less expensive.

The locals drink Vermentino with Italian cheeses -- ricotta, buffala mozzarella, buratta, and goat cheese. But, if you want to move into 2020 Americana, try Vermentino with soft tacos. Chicken tacos, fish tacos, or shrimp tacos with a spritz of lime will be perfect. Take my word for it.



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