Mavrud

We haven't been to Bulgaria for a while. Let's head back there today. As loyal followers might recall, a mere 50 years ago, Bulgaria was the fourth leading producer of wine in the world. But, outside of what was then the Soviet Union, nobody knew about it. As one of the Soviet Bloc countries, Bulgaria was the producer of choice to Moscow and St Petersburg, then Leningrad.

Today, Bulgaria is having a wine revolution of sorts.While a lot of production is of the traditional grapes, we can get them anywhere. But, only in Bulgaria, and a few bordering areas, can we get the interesting grape known as Mavrud.

There are two main wine regions in Bulgaria -- the Danubian Valley in the north and the Thracian Valley in the south. Last time we were here, we were in the Danubian Valley, so let's go to the Thracian Valley today.

The region is lined off roughly by the area controlled by the Thracians in ancient Roman times. Notably bordered by the Black Sea to the east and the Aegean Sea to the south. Both give the warming influences necessary to produce many high-quality dry red wines.

In particular, we have traveled to Asenovgrad. Rising above the town are the ruins of Assen Fortress where Bulgarian warriors defended the country against invaders from the south. It's also home to one of the largest Gypsy populations in the world.

And, Asenovgrad and its surroundings are the home of Mavrud. It's a red grape, whose name comes from a legend. When Khan Khrum was the dictator of Bulgaria, he ordered all vineyards destroyed. Then a lion escaped from the city and a young boy named Mavrud confronted and killed the lion. Upon his success, Mavrud harvested grapes from the last remaining vineyard, made wine and brought it to Khan Khrum who then ordered the vineyards replanted.

Mavrud  produces low yields, small berries, and a highly concentrated wine. It has the same purplish tinge and pinkish rim as Malbec, is moderately tannic, has nice acidity, and interesting flavors. Upon first taste, we notice the chocolate notes, but as the Mavrud wine moves mid-palate, there is lots of crushed cherry. We also get notes of cocoa, green tea, and dark berry in a well-constructed and highly ageable wine.

Pair it much as you would Malbec. Consider bacon and aged veiny cheeses for starters. But, drink up; this wine is inexpensive. You can get many of the best in the $15 range.


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