Vespolina

Desperately in search of new (real) grape, we had planned a trip to the Piemonte today. But, the harvest was running late and we were told we would not be welcome for a few days. So, we decided to head to Australia to try a grape that is indigenous to that northwestern mountainous region of Italy. But, we're not going just anywhere in Australia, we are headed to the alpine region of the state of Vicroria.

Our flight into Melbourne was uneventful. Coming in over Port Phillip Bay on which the state capital sits, the beautiful spring day made fro a great sight as the sun reflected off the water. We disembarked and got a car to head on our trip toward Mount Buffalo. Technically, we are in a small wine region known as Alpine Valleys, an Australian Geographical Indication only since the very late 20th century.

Of all the Australian wine regions, this is probably the coolest and one of the newest. Once one of the leading tobacco-growing areas in the southern hemisphere, the Australian tobacco industry shut down in 2006 and this area, among others, was in need of another crop. Two, in particular, that experienced newfound growth were hops (but this is not a beer blog) and grapes.

The grape we are drinking today, Vespolina, is an offspring of Nebbiolo. So, we would expect that it might be a prodigious red grape, but it's not. In fact, it's nearly the polar opposite. Light and aromatic and not particularly attracted to oak, even the growing and production processes are different.

Here, the Vespolina is grown wild on the mostly northern facing slopes of Mount Buffalo. Harvested in mid-March (remember this is the southern hemisphere, so that is like mid-September in the northern hemisphere), the wine is highly aromatic, but light, brightly colored and low in tannins. Because it is not a fan of oak, it is fermented on skins in very old, neutral barrels.

Upon opening a bottle, we find expressive notes of spring roses and pomegranate. On the palate, we get those notes as well as a bit of black pepper, oregano, and some of the residual tobacco that used to be planted there.

This is an excellent wine for a great appetizer. Serve this wine with cold, cured meats, surrounded by a bit of arugula, with some balsamic vinegar.

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