Laws Controlling Wine Production -- Good or Bad?

In the US, if a wine producer wants to label a wine as a specific varietal, generally speaking, that wine must be composed of at least 75% of that variety of grape. In much of Europe, the goal is to label the wine as being of a specific appellation (there are, of course, different names and types depending on country and language). And, with that appellation come the rules of the appellation. 

It's not even constant within regions of countries let alone countries. And, while for the sophisticated wine enthusiast, it's not a problem, it is much more so for the relative newbie wine drinker in the US.

Let's consider Italy for example. The country is broken into a number (I'm sure I could google the number, but that's your job if you want to know) of administrative regions. Further, in wine terms, each administrative region is broken into anywhere from a small handful to a few dozen Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG), Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC), Indicazione geografica tipica (IGT), and Denominazione di origine (DO) that I have listed in order of quality, DOCG being the top of the line.

The Master of Italian Wine (yes, there is such a designation) might know that a wine labeled Marino is made of either or both of Malvasia or Trebbiano, but more to the point, they will know the likely characteristics of such a wine. But, there are actually hundreds, and not just one or two hundred, of such regions within Italy. And, unless you really know the geography and climate of any given region, it's more likely than not that you have not a clue as to most of them? We mentioned Marino earlier. It's actually one of the more obvious of the Italian wine regions yet most Americans would not know that it is within Rome's metropolitan area. Perhaps, neither should they.

So, would it be better if the Marinese were allowed to make their wines as they chose and then label them as varietals? Would you rather drink a Malvasia Bianco or a Marino? Would you care?

For me, the answer lies in learning the DOCG/DOC/IGT/DO that I like and not worrying about the specifics of the wine for the most part. Yes, I know the grapes that can be grown for wine in Barolo, for example, as well as those in Montalcino, but that's not the point. What I know that is more helpful to me and to you if you do know, is that the wines of Barolo are big, bold, brooding, ageworthy red wines. They are both tannic and acidic and require foods that can hold up to them, but paired properly, they make for what can be a life-altering combination.

Is it important that the grapes are Nebbiolo? To me, probably. To you, it depends on who you are. 

From a control standpoint, is it more important to know that the wines are Barolo or that they are Nebbiolo, or are they of equal import or do you just not care? Again, it depends on who you are.

But, the Italians have chosen to control their wines in this fashion as has much of the European Union. It's part of the difference between the Old World and the New World. 

Good or bad? I don't know. Just confusing sometimes.

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