Using Those Terroir Fingerprints
Yesterday, we learned that each terroir -- the wines of each unique vineyard or part of a vineyard, essentially -- has its own fingerprint. Wow, that's cool, but who cares? Can it be used? And, if so, how? And, if we figure out how it can be used, does the average wine drinker care?
Let's start with an easy application. In recent years, there has been a spate of coutnerfeiting of ultra-high end wines. You can read about the sad tale of Rudy Kurniawan, perhaps the best known of the wine counterfeiters. He was sentenced to 10 years in prison for his exploits which included selling bottles so rare that he had in his possession more than were ever produced in one case and of a vintage that had not been produced in another. By knowing the fingerprints of the vineyards from which these wines were actually produced, it would be easy to identify his couterfeits as frauds
But, let's consider more productive ways that these fingerprints could be used. If a winemaker truly understands the abilities and limitations of a particular vineyard, they can better highlight the strengths of the vineyard while perhaps finding ways to mask the weaknesses.
Let's consider an example. Suppose the unique characteristics of Johnsgrapeoftheday Vineyard have been determined such that it necessarily produces what we might consider to be a softer red wine -- one that is creamier and with more rounded tannins on the palate. Well, if that's the case, there is no point in trying to create a big, dense, chewy red wine. It's just not going to happen at any level of quality. So, instead of fighting against our own assets, let's make wines that are, in fact, reflective of the terroir that we have. Perhpas this is the vineyard where we create softer red wines that are approachable young.
In particular, I expect that over time, this research will benefit less known wine regions more than the perrennial stalwarts. Some regions might have great climates and soil for some wines, but not for others. If an adventurous soul wanting to plant grapes in, for example, Maldives, or a bit less adventurous, Hawaii, this reasearch might be used to identify the grapes that will work in harmony with the terroir rather than in competition. Today, even among the most knowledgeable and successful vignerons or grape growers, there is a lot of guesswork. Sometimes, they get it right because they know what has been planted successfully nearby, but suppose you were the first on trying to make high-end wines using only Icelandic grapes. Wouldn't it help to have a head start and know what the resultant wines might taste like and how they will age if they are capable of aging?
It really is pretty cool.
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