Are There Too Many Wine Regions?

AOC, AVA, DOCG, DOCa, IGT. There are so many of them and some of them overlap. Some are based on history. Some are based on geographical borders or political borders. Others end where there is a waterway. Some run on both sides of a waterway, but then differentiate between the tow sides. Others are climate-based.

Do we need so many? Do we care?  What should distinguish one region from another?

The problems are different in the New World of wine than in the Old World of wine. Let's hit the Old World -- roughly Europe and the countries around what are believed to be the birthplace of wine in far eastern Europe and far western Asia (the part sometimes referred to as the Middle East although only part of it). In particular, let's consider what those of us in the US might consider to be the three most significant wine-producing countries in all of Europe -- alphabetically, France, Italy, and Spain. Among other things, what they have in common are rules.

Rules, rules, and more rules.

You want to produce sparkling wines in Champagne and refer to them as Champagne? Well, there are a limited number of grapes you may use, there might be, depending on how you want to label your bottle, rules on which grape must predominate, and you must use methode traditionelle. On the other hand, if you are in Chateauneuf du Pape, you are also limited, but to nearly 20 grapes.

So each appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) produces wines of a particular type and or style. There is a little bit of sense to that. If you know some about French wine, despite that they don't list the grape or grapes on the bottle, you can work out the wine type pretty well.

Italy used to be pretty much the same. But, then the enterprising folks at Antinori decided that they wanted to experimant with adding Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to their Sangiovese. These are French grapes. They are not indigenous to Toscana (Tuscany). So, they could not be labeled Toscana. And, they had an idea; they called these wines Super-Tuscans. They skirted the rules. And other folks added Merlot and Syrah and a new style of wine was born 50 years ago this year. All that said, if you buy a wine with the DOCG, DOG, or IGT designations, an Italian wine drinker will know what you are drinking.

In the US, the problems are much more complex. Leave it to the American wine industry to make a mess of it. Consider the state of Washington. More than 99% of all wine from the state is allegedly made east of the Cascade Moutains. That's the Columbia Valley AVA. That's a very large expanse. The wines don't necessarily have a lot of commonality. And, because almost all Washington wines come from Columbia Valley, the difference between Washington wine and Columbia Valley wine is largely branding. But, within the state of Washington, there are 13 American Viticultural Areas (AVA). 12 of the 13 are fully east of or on the eastern side of the Cascades. But, what distinguishes them?

Horse Heaven Hills AVA has more then 4000 hectares (about 2.5 acres per hectare) planted to wine grapes, but only 5 wineries. Walla Walla AVA has more than 140 wineries, but only about 650 hectares planted. And Naches Heights has only 16 hectares planted with just one winery. One! Does it need its own AVA? What is so special about it?

The people at Naches Heights Vineyard, and while I know nothing about those people, I feel certain they are good people and very honest and well-intentioned, say that it is the unique volcanic soil of their AVA that deserves that recognition. Oh, and the vineyards are at high elevation, so that combination must definitely merit their own AVA. And, some of their wines are canned and others bottled. 

I've never tasted their wines. I've never seen their wines. I find it a stretch that they need their own AVA. In fact, I don't know how they got to be their own AVA. Did they just apply and get it? Does AVA designation come the old-fashioned way-- accompanied with a check? I don't know. But, I think we have way too many AVAs.