Tasting in Tasting Rooms

Wow, has the character of tasting rooms at wineries changed since I first went to them more recently than you might think. In fact, I think my first visit was in 2005 or 2006. And, yes, they were different then.

So, what was the model then, what is it now, and is it better or worse?

Back about 15 years ago, at least based on my experience, tasting rooms varied by geographical area. And, they still do. But, for the most part, the wineries were using them to sell their wine. That doesn't seem to be the case anymore. Now, at least in my experience, they are a separate profit center in many places.

In the 20 aughts as they are sometimes classsified, the system, so to speak, seemed to work a lot like this. You go in, sometimes with a reservation necessary, but usually not, and you usually pay a fee per person. Sometimes, it was free in the hopes that the winery could interest you enough in their wine that you would take some with you, have some shipped to your home, or in the case of the holy grail, join their wine club. It's those wine club members who are the most profitable for wineries, but who also have access to the best wines. 

Back then, the typical tasting fee ranged from $5 per person to $25, although the higher amounts were usually for a premium or reserve tasting. Better wines, at least in theory for more money. And, some wineries never charged for them at all. Of course, at wineries where a tour was included or where there was food or better yet, food pairings, the prices were higher. We tended to eschew those wineries, but fees for those tended to range from about $25 up to perhaps $75 per person.

But, you could get them waived. Know somebody who knows somebody where the first of those somebodies was willing to vouch for you and your fees were waived. Beg really nicely and your fees might be waived. Or, make a minimum purchase and the fees were waived.

Fast forward to today, or in some areas to right before the pandemic began, and things are very different. Tasting fees have been increased much more rapidly than the rate of inflation. And, the more common model now is that you get a menu of wines to choose from and you get some number of very carefully measured pours from that menu. Food is often sold, but not necessarily to pair with the wines and it's pretty pricey. And, good luck getting your tastings comped. You really have to have an in whether it be you knowing someone or at least knowing someone who knows someone really well. Or, you can make a pretty good-sized purchase and maybe get a tasting comped, but if there are two of you, it is entirely possible that they will only comp one tasting. And, surprisingly, at least to me, joining the wine club while you are there is not a guarantee that the tasting fee for the wine you drank 10 minutes earlier will be waived.

It's a new model. I don't like it. What say you?