The New Grapes of Bordeaux

For many years, dating back to the beginning of regulating such things, the grapes that have been allowed in the wines of Bordeaux have been limited. Most of us know the classic grapes, the reds being, alphabetically, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, and the whites Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Far less used and not originally permitted are red Carmenere and whites Colombard, Merlot Blanc, Mauzac, Merlot Blanc, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Gris, and Ugni Blanc.

Yes, I know that stuff. it's fair game for sommelier tests and maybe one of these days, I'll break down and take one or more.

The winemakers of Bordeaux have been struggling in recent years. It has been hotter than traditional temperatures by several degrees over almost all of the last 10. The worry is that these grapes alone cannot be used to produce wines that stand up to these temperature  variations.

Zut alors!

Earlier this year, the Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualite (INAO) (think of the literal translation of that as snobs who have nothing better to do than to tell farmers what they can plant where and when) approved six new grape varieties for the 2021 vintage and beyond. They described this as culminating more than 10 years of research into heat patterns and grapes used to withstand rising temperatures. And, the even bigger snobs at the Bordeaux Wine Council billed these additions as eco-friendly. I have no idea why this is eco-friendly, but I will take their word for it.

The newly admitted red grapes are Arinarnoa formed by the marriage of two of the more tannic red grapes, Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon; Castets, a grape that was permitted in Bordeaux until it suddenly wasn't; Marselan, a breeding of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon; and Touriga Nacional, the Portuguese stalwart that is the predominant grape in Port wine. And, the two new white grapes are Alvarinho (yes, they used the Portuguese spelling), the first grape I ever blogged about back in March 2020 when I used the Spanish spelling of Albarino; and Liliorila, a grape that I have never heard of that I understand to be what you get when you allow Chardonnay and Baroque to marry.

For those who think the French are getting less rule-intensive, hold on. These new renegade grapes are limited to 5 percent of total plantings and 10% of the compostions of any wine.

As an aside, this is my 500th post (just think that when I started this preparing for the promised 6 weeks of COVID lockdown, I planned to quit after those 6 weeks). For those of you who have been with me since the beginning, those who joined midway who have stayed loyal, and those who are new or just sse an occasional post, thank you for letting me into your days and thank you for allowing me to entertain myself and hopefully you as well.

Salut et a votre sante.


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