Cesanese

Have you ever been to Castelli Romani, the group of Italian towns that find themselves in an ancient volcanic crater less than 20km/12miles southwest of Rome? If not, today is your day.

Translated, the name of the area means Roman castles and it has that name not for castles so much, but for the collection of Roman villas found in the group of towns that makes of this small region. We find them mostly atop the Alban Hills and nestled around Lakes Nemi and Albano.

Despite its proximity to the Roman capital, the hills of Castelli Romani are considerably cooler than the city of Rome. With the ancient volcanic soil and the rolling hillsides, it's a natural paradise for growing wine grapes.

Among the grapes of choice here because, of course, it is allowed in the DOCG rules, is Cesanese, sometimes known as Cesanese del Piglio (Chay-suh-Nay-say Peel-yo). Grown near the town of Nemi, one of the leading strawberry producing towns in Europe, we would expect similarly bright fruit. 

What we get instead in Cesanese is a wine all its own. It has needle and pins type tannins, moderate acidity and a finish that reminds the drinker of kale. 

Perhaps it is because the Castelli Romani is also the home of the pigs and wild boar of Italy, but Cesanese is somewhat unique in that at least according to the local farmers, the Cesanese wines have the aroma of the freshly drawn blood of wild boar. Having never hung out around wild boar nor drawn their blood myself, I can only take their word for it. To me, it's like a well-seasoned cast iron skillet. Perhaps those are the same aromas.

On the palate, we get herbaceous notes as well as pomegranate, stewed plums, and canned vranberry sauce. For those who are bother by a wine that is too herbaceous, one way to bring out more of the fruit is to pair the wine with rich, saucy, meaty dish.

The locals recommend Garganelli alla Coda, a dish with somewhat tubular pasta looking like unfilled ravioli wrapped around a skewer, but with the skewer removed, and combined with the likes of local favorites rabbit and or oxtail. Add to that a marinade based in red table wine, winter spices, juniper berries, and tomato paste and you have a local dish that will bring out the finest of Cesanese.